Wednesday, November 3, 2010

State 45

Well, we left Pennsylvania with regrets, having had a great time, and seen 456,987,123 autumn trees - and for those who asked, john DIDN'T stay with the Amish, or dye his beard - but wait till you seet the photo of him in an Amish hat!!

New York was merely a train-swap for us, although we raced out into the street, outside Maddison Square Garden, took a photo of the Empire State building, then caught the next train, this time to Albany, the capital city of New York State. It was a glorious journey - right beside the Hudson River all the way.

In Albany we hired a car and drove into Vermont - state #45 - unfortunately, we missed most of the Fall leaves here, but it's still beautiful. We stopped in Bennington and visited the Grandma Moses exhibition at the museum (come on, own up, how many of you are old enough to remember Grandma Moses' naive paintings that everyone admired in the 1950s!) and the Bennington monument, from the American Revolution.

We stayed the night with Nancy and Bob, Affordablr Travel Club members from Rutland, Vermont. For US$20 we had a lovely bedroom, our own bathroom, a good breakfast, and lots of Parliamentary comment, as yesterday was half-term election day, when people voted for State Governors, senators, and lots of other people ... including judges, police chiefs, head of the school board etc ... we didn't see any banners telling us which dogcatcher to vote for! This morning we visited the Norman Rockwell museum at Rutland (Clue - 1950s - Saturday Evening Post - Frances' Uncle Allan always gave them to her to read)

It was so cold this morning that the frost was still everywhere (even the tops of trees) at midday, and we saw lots of 30cm (12 inch) icicles hanging from rocks beside the road as we drove. We even saw patches of ice on a pond! It's been so warm and sunny further south that we got a real surprise! Fortunately we have lots of warm clothes, and our smart new black Mitsubishi Galant is toasty warm, too.

By the way ... What horse won the Melbourne Cup? ... there's no way we can find out here except for the internet, and our half hour is up ... Bye!

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Between Intercourse and Paradise!

If you've been reading our blog, you'll KNOW that we've been having a superb time - but we bet that you didn't expect a blog with THIS title! No, this is not a case of 'too much information' - this is where we were yesterday! Intercourse and Paradise are two towns in Lancaster County, south-eastern Pennsylvania, the heart of the Amish country. For those of you who would rather focus on another interpretation, let us remind you that before you can go from Intercourse to Paradise, you first have to go to Bird in Hand ... it may be old-fashioned to call girls 'birds', but the sequence seems appropriate!

In the summer, we are told, it is almost impossible to move on the roads of Lancaster county for gawking tourists. On a warm, damp October day we were able to feel that we were visitors, and we carefully refrained from gawking. We both believe in complying with the wish of the Amish people that they should not be photographed, but managed to take some great shots of their buggies and horses - it's amazing to see a black buggy travelling amongst all the cars and semi-trailers, the horse proceeding at a smart clip that many old cars would envy and not at all intimidated by the traffic.

We lunched at a large, touristy restaurant, which specialised in Amish foods, and visited a general store and quilt shop in Intercourse, before heading back to the Bird in Hand farmers market. As well as the superb quilts, Frances was fascinated by the Amish dolls, which show no facial features, and John loved the old-fashioned wooden toys. Oh to have room in our cases for all the things we'd love to buy! Instead, we purchased a range of German-style cheeses and sausages (wursts), a sticky pecan loaf and farm-fresh eggs.

Today we've spent the day in Mechanicsburg PA (There's a lot of funnily-named burgs around here!) and can't believe the welcome that the locals give us as we wandered the attractive streets. The local barber, in a shop that hasn't been altered, except for the provision of electricity, since 1890, even insisted on giving us two mugs from the large collection on his walls! We visited a bar called 'The Gingerbread Man', talked to a fellow who spends his mornings in the family hardware store and his afternoons selling clothes 'from 1880 to 1980', and lunched at a cafe which had a working radio studio attached. Most houses are decorated for Halloween (does nobody ever steal the pumpkins sitting on the sidewalk beside the front steps?) and a large number display the American flag. The churches have tall white spires, there are yellow chrysanthemums in boxes beside the cute yellow fire hydrants, under falling showers of yellow leaves ... we can't help swivelling our heads to see if we're on a film set!

On a more prosaic note, we're still getting no emails (not even junk mail) on our usual address, so we're now using Frances' (fwindolf) mailbox at ********@une.edu.au Don't use the stars, of course - just fill in the name! This address is not for jokes, games, pictures, but if you want to send us a message, this appears to be the best way. For those who have sent messages to the blog about Queensland's rain, we hate to inform you that we've had no proper rain, and only 2 days with slight drizzle in our trip so far - we've had sun day after day, with occasional rain at night when we're safely inside. Someone, somewhere is looking after us!

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

History takes many forms!

Our joy in visiting present-day Pennsylvania (good friends, beautiful scenery, amazing autumn leaves) has been increased by looking back into the past. Over the last three days we've visited three VERY different museums.

The first was a tavern in Dillsburg, where we're staying with Colette and Bill. started in 1794 by James Dill (an Irishmen of unrecorded intelligence!), this stone building gave us a fascinating look back over life in the nineteenth century. It's a local museum, and is obviously very much loved. We enjoyed comparing it to early Australian buildings, but also enjoyed it for itself, and spent a wonderful afternoon there.

Today we visited two museums that couldn't have been more different. The 'National Apple Museum' in Biglerville Pennsylvania is in an old barn, and contains a large range of apple memorabilia, from apple peelers to songs about apples "Don't sit under the apple tree with anyone else but me" ... etc), to farm machinery and patchwork quilts. The gentleman (or was he an apple-tree gnome?) who showed us around was so passionate about apples that we thought we'd never get away, but his enthusiasm rubbed off on us so that we all enjoyed our unusual morning.

In the afternoon we visited the multi-million dollar Gettysburg National Military Park Museum, where we first watched a film narrated by Morgan Freeman, then ascended to view the most amazing cyclorama, over 40 ft (12 metres) tall and over 350 ft around, painted just after the battle. It was amazing! The museum itself, with memorabilia from the 3-day 1863 battle, was one of the best we've seen.

Then we followed our visit with a drive around the battlefield - green fields and thousands of Fall trees, interspersed by hundreds and hundreds of memorials. We've come away VERY impressed and very thoughtful. What a wonderful place!

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Sports Report from John

BEE EEE AAA RRR SSS ... BEARS! ... BE EE AA RR SS ... BEARS! ... B E A R S ... BEARS!
I can recall every note of the Hershey Bears Ice Hockey team rallying call, even though it's nearly 21 hours since I was in the stadium - it's still ringing loudly in my ears. As you no doubt know, I've never been a great sports fan, and I've certainly never seen an ice hockey match, but I really enjoyed the extravaganza that I attended with Ken and Bill.

The match was divided into three sessions, each twenty minutes long, with twenty minutes between each session - they needed all that time to stock up on beers, sodas, hotdogs, fries, potato chips ... just enough food to keep them alive until the next break. The game was exciting for Hershey Bears fans (the Hershey chocolate headquarters was right next door) but not so good for the Adirondack Phantoms because the Bears won 5-0. Actually, it seemed to me that the main point of the game, for players and spectators alike, was who won the fights - those on the ice seemed to be fighting constantly - it was like a mix of hockey, ice-skating and World Championship wrestling, with every move, fight and all, described at 200 decibels over the loud speaker.

It was a great night - one to remember - think I prefer cricket, though - it's certainly more dignified!

Friday, October 22, 2010

Just briefly

For those wanting a travelogue, this blog will be unsatisfactory. Instead, we're experiencing life as small-town American citizens. We wake in the morning and eat pop-tarts for breakfast; we go to the store; we walk around town viewing the pumpkins, the decorations of scarecrows, cornstalks and autumn leaves; we go to the store; we watch the incessant mid-term election advertisements on TV (each one blatantly calling the opposition candidate a liar); we go out with our friends and a group of their friends for pizza; we come home and drink beer, whisky or wine and eat pretzels and potato chips -we even have a taste of real genuine moonshine! We've had a wonderful time in Portage, and tomorrow we move on to the other side of the Alleghennies - Ken and Janet will take us to stay with Janet's sister, Colette and her husband Bill.

We've enjoyed this week - it's been a holiday from holidaying - and we feel really relaxed. Our only concern is that none of our emails have come through for more than a week - but tonight we have two. If you've tried to contact us, will you please try again?

Tomorrow night John goes to an ice-hockey match with the boys, while we girls party ... watch this space for John's sports report - there'll be NO report from the girls!

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Amtrak and Amish across America

We're writing this safely from the beautiful Alleghenny Mountains of Pennsylvania - the foothills look a little like Gippsland with extra autumn leaves - it's beautiful! Janet and Ken have made us so welcome, and none of us have stopped talking in 24 hours, except when we fell asleep after midnight.

After travelling so long, we were looking forward to catching up with our mail, but somehow Webmail is showing (yet again) that we have no mail - if you have mailed us in the last week, could you please resend it?? Thanks!

Travelling for so long? Yes, we just spent six days on the train - fortunately with two all-too-short overnight stops to sleep in hotels. We caught the Coast Starlight from San Luis Obispo to Emeryville near San Francisco last Wednesday, being thrilled to see Californian deer, mule deer and wild turkeys on our way. The next morning we left Emeryville for Chicago on the California Zephyr, and travelled from 10am Thursday until 5pm Saturday, through California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Nebraska (our 43rd state), Iowa and Illinois. Travelling through the Rockies was a never-to-be-forgotten experience, but the rest of the trip was wonderful too, and we really appreciated the loudspeaker commentary that told us the history and interesting aspects on the way. The glass-roofed viewing car was a wonderful place to view the scenery, and when we retired to our much-bigger-than-airline-style seats, with reclining backs, extendable leg rests, and pillows provided, we found that we slept soundly, too.

On Saturday morning, in Nebraska and Iowa, we picked up a number of Amish travellers - a family travelling to a funeral in Missouri, and a grandmother, her daughter, and children who had travelled west for medical reasons, and were now returning home. The eldest relatives in the funeral group were a couple who had never been on a train before - they lived 80 miles (120 km) from the Amtrak line - and who ket standing around looking totally dumb-founded! I had great fun teaching Martha the tricks of train toilets! The other family, Ellen - a 57 yo mother of ten children, and her daughter Rose, wore plain coloured dresses, not black, and white caps. They became friendly with us in the viewing car, and asked if they could sit with us when we transferred to the Cardinal in Chicago, for the 28 hour trip to Philadelphia. Ellen left in Kentucky, where relatives were waiting to bring Rose's eldest daughter to the train when Ellen left. That left Rose with three small children - Kayla aged 4, Amy aged 3, and Davon (a boy) who is nearly 2 - a big job for anyone to look after.

Sunday was a glorious day - we travelled right across West Virginia, beside the Kanawha River and its tributaries for much of the day - river boats, rapids, autumn leaves, steep mountain gorges etc - it was like a picturebook. Frances spent almost all day with two, or even three, delightful little Amish children (the girls in plain blue or green dresses, black boots and black bonnets, Davon in grey trousers with broad crossed straps, and a dark red shirt like his mother's dress) on her knee ... it was a delight. Davon called John 'grandfather', because of his beard, and his eyes twinkled as he lay back on John's lap and looked up at it. We were SO exhausted by the time we helped them disembark at Wilmington Delaware, and we slept like logs in Philadelphia.

Yesterday we went to see the Liberty Bell before catching the Philadelphian to Johnstown. We travelled through Lancaster, the area which most people link with the Amish, watching farmers plowing with a hand plough behind a horse, an Amish Wagon delivering visitors to a farm, long lines of Monday-morning washing reaching from the second-story to the ground (unusual in a country where everyone else uses electric driers). It was wonderful to see Janet again, and to meet Ken.

Today we went to see the place where Admiral Peary first to reach the North Pole (there's some controversy about that, but it seems right) was born. a few miles from Janet and Ken's home in Portage PA, and visited a mansion now owned by the Franciscans, to enjoy the beautiful gardens, before feasting on pumpkin pie icecream at a dairy farm that has a Halloween fair every year - the pumpkins were worth seeing. All of Portage, even the funeral directors' office, is decorated for Halloween - it's great fun!

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

From fast to SLO

Sunday was a melange of new experiences for us. We attended a Unitarian service with Tom and Neal - well, mainly with Tom, as Neal was outside helping people dye dozens of Peace T-shirts she'd screen printed. It was midday before we headed for the freeway, northwards from San Diego and past San Bernadino, at the back of Los Angeles. WOW! There were ten lanes of traffic - 5 each way - and sometimes more - all doing 80 miles an hour ... that's 130 kilometres an hour ... and every lane full of traffic all the time ... thousands and thousands of cars and trucks. We were almost glad that we had a largish SUV (4WD) as we drove like bats out of hell for two hours straight before we escaped near the San Gabriel mountains - a ski area just east of Los Angeles. There we stopped at the Mountain View Inn, beside one of the largest sand hills we've ever seen, and shared a plate of ... liver and onions! It seemed so un-American! Heading westwards, we drove beside the Edwards air force base, to Palmdale, where we supermarket shopped and booked in at a local Days Inn, totally wrung-out from our experiences in the fast lane.

Monday was totally different, as we drove along narrow country roads along the edge of the Sierra Madre, heading towards the coast. Our first impression was of the smog that continued to blanket the hills, even 150 kilometres (nearly 100 miles) from central Los Angeles. Our second impression was that we'd seen it all before, even though this was our first visit - we kept seeing scenes from every cowboy movie we ever saw. I'm quite sure I saw Victore Mature peering over a ridge, and Audie Murphy down in a gulch below (don't worry dears, if you're under 100 years old and can't remember these stars of the Wild West!).

It was delightful to arrive in the San Luis Obispo (SLO) area and meet up with our friends Anni and Bill. We'd visited them last year, but one visit is never enough - it's wonderful to feel that you're almost continuing the conversation left off at the end of the last visit. Like Neal and Tom, Bill and Anni are wonderful hosts, though we're all lacking sleep because we talk so far into the night - as well as being keen international tourists, they travelled the US for seven years, visiting every mainland state, including Alaska, and Canada, before settling down at Avila Beach. Yesterday we lunched at inland Templeton, at a wonderful restaurant in an old saloon - again it was just like a movie set - before visiting the SLO botanical garden.

Our bags are packed, we're ready to go ... this showbiz air is having an effect on us ... and today we set off on the first of six train-days. Today we return our SUV and travel by train to Emeryville, just inland from San Francisco, where we'll stay in a hotel overnight. Tomorrow we head for Chicago, via Salt Lake City, Colorado and Nebraska, our 43rd state. We're due to arrive on Saturday afternoon, and will then change trains and travel through Ohio, West Virginia (state #44) and Washington DC to Philadelphia, the next time we'll sleep in a bed, on Sunday night. On Monday we'll catch another train, this time heading west through Pennsylvania, to Johnstown, where Janet and Ken promise to be waiting for us among the autumn (fall!) leaves of the Alleghenny Mountains. Don't expect another blog for a week - but in the meantime, we hope that you're enjoying life as much as we are.